Thursday, January 31, 2008

and than there were 2...

It´s that time when saying goodbyes starts having an impact. Although part of the fun and thrill of traveling is the people you meet along the way, you always know that you will part ways eventually...whether it be in 3 days or 3 weeks.
To think that I arrived with Jess in Mexico City 2 months ago seems like eternity. We had a brilliant experience throughout Southern Mexico during that time, with extended stays on the West coast where we met the first Aussie gang. Leaving them was definitely sad and we wondered when we´d find another group. And as Ive mentioned in previous posts, it didn´t take long to form a new 7 point-posse in the Yucutan, composing of 2 more Aussie boys, 2 Swedes, and our Irish mate Paul who we met a month earlier. And quickly enough, the group has dissipated.
Jess finally has left. She is enroute to London where she will be working and living for the next year. It´s been 7 months with that girl and there is something special to say about that. Its been a wondrous and unexpected friendship and I couldn´t have asked for a better traveling buddy.
So than there were 3- Jeremy, Paul, and Lisa.
Jeremy left today...flying back to Australia via Los Angeles. Another sad departure.
And now, there is 2.
I am still with Irish Paul and we will be making our way to Belize tomorrow. After some consideration on how I will be getting to Honduras, I was easily convinced to come through Belize for a few days and revisit the old country that I spent a semester at 3 years ago.

Monday, January 21, 2008

playa del carmen and isla de mujeres

As a backpacker, traveling in tourist-spots can always be overwhelming. Maybe I had some of these thoughts in South America when we visited Cusco, Peru (Machu Picchu), or Patagonia in Chile. However, this is totally different. We arrived in tourist-central Playa del Carmen and although no one immediately said so, I think we all wished to turn around and head back to Tulum. We were on the main avenue in Playa surrounded by obnoxious vendors, tourists wearing stupid Mexico shirts and other paraphernalia, and there is a Walmart across the street from our hostel. This is not what we were looking for. The beaches are crowded and dirty. I can’t walk down the street without a store owner yelling at me to look at his necklaces. Why did we come here? Well, I have no idea why we did, but if we are here…we might as well take advantage and do what’s best…go Scuba Diving.
The diving was brilliant. There is something so special and amazing about Caribbean water. The visibility doesn’t get any better and the variety of marine life is astounding.
We saw about 8 giant sea-turtles which made the expensive dive worth it immediately. Our hostel is filled with a great international crowd and as usual we find ourselves having a blast with Israelis, Swedes, Serbians, and Aussies. After 3 days we decide to move on to Isla Mujeres, a small island off of Cancun. The 20 minute ferry ride takes us to another paradise-island…still touristy but not as bad as Cancun and Playa del Carmen. The entire island is 8kilometers so my new running pal, Aussie Jeremy and I take on the island. Everyone rides around in golf carts and I am just another American here in a Mexican resort town. More importantly, we watched the Giants game last night against GreenBay…and you know what that means…my GMen are going to the Superbowl! Epic night. Rough morning. Irish Paul and Aussie Jeremy and myself are heading to a new destination tomorrow. Where we are going I cannot say (although I DO know), because it may or may not be illegal. No worries though, Mom and Dad know where I will be and I have contacts. There will be updates next week after I return. Jess leaves next Sunday which is sad. We have been together for almost 6 months now and I think it will be really weird without her anymore. However, she is moving on and heading to London for work so after a long amazing time together, will be parting ways.

Tulum

Jan 10-14

Although we enjoyed our week in south-central Mexico, it has become clear to us (or maybe just me) that the coast is where I belong. After 7 days inland, I was craving the beach again. We quickly switched coasts and another night bus later, we have landed in Tulum, Mexico…the Caribbean- 2 hours south of Cancun.
The east coast of Mexico, also known as the Yucatan has an entirely different feel than the West coast. Here, American tourists take vacations and cruise-stops. The towns are much more tourist-oriented, and you don’t feel very far from home.
However, Tulum is different. The beaches have a fine white powder, the water is aqua blue, and there is actually silence. Granted, there are (more) Mayan Ruins here which are located ON the beach, making them quite a site (although I wouldn’t know because I never visited them even though they were 5 minutes from my hostel) for tourists, you can always find an isolated place on the beach without being bothered.

On our bus ride from Palenque we met 2 Swedish boys who come to the hostel with us. Within 2 days we also find 2 more Australian boys. The following day our Irish friend Paul, from Puerto Escondido finds us and once again, we have formed a new posse…quite quickly this time.
Jess and I spend our days renting bicycles and riding down the beach. We find secluded lagoons on walking paths where there is fresh water, completely still and clear amongst beautiful ferns and trees. We bike into nature reserves where turtles are being protected and there is silence for hours. I could live here. Eventually. Not now- I do realize that as much as I enjoy being on beach taking in the beautiful surroundings, I am certainly not ready to settle down and live the quiet life YET. I definitely have more of a purpose than that, but it IS nice.
Once again, Sunday rolls around and the Giants-Dallas game comes to attention. We spend the day at a tiny bar while I anxiously pace back and forth during the intense game. And to my disbelief, they win…what a great day it was.
Our 7-point-posse leaves Tulum together, not knowing that our next destination will bring overwhelming feelings of tourist-ville Mexico.

san cristobal to palenque

Jan 3-10
After 3 weeks of Puerto Escondido- Jess, Az, and I head to San Cristóbal. Originally our friend was supposed to join us instead of Az, however, complications arose when the boys sold the VW van and he had to drive to Guatemala with the new owners of Fred to transfer papers. Az joined us instead and it was a great little trio that we had for the following week.
San Cristobal is a beautiful town in the south-west of Mexico several hours inland. After spending 3 weeks at thebeach we thought it would be a good idea to find a real city and enjoy the sites. What we were not prepared for was the weather. Although the temperatures where chilly, we were freezing. 45 degrees at night was unbearable for us beach-goers and we were dressed in layers with hats, scarves, and sleeping in gloves with long-johns. The city has a great array of music and the streets are similar to those of Oaxaca- paved in cobblestone and artsy.
Unfortunately, the weather put us off and after 3 days (but of course waiting for Sunday Giants game) we head to Palenque.
Palenque is some of the more popular Mayan ruins in Mexico, located in the muggy-jungle area of the country. After a bumpy overnight bus ride, we take cab to El Ponchon, a little community of housing and restaurants right outside of the ruins.
We find a cute cabana for 2 days in the little hippie-town and head out first thing in the morning to the ruins. At this point, I have seen a lot of ruins. The intensity and amazement is lessening at each site that I visit which is somewhat disappointing. However, Palenque had its own charismatic feeling. Set in the middle of the jungle surrounded by waterfalls, the massive temples and structures stood out amongst the highlands. We spent the day exploring the site, walking through the jungle listening to monkeys, and sitting on top of these colossal formations in silence…taking in the brilliance.

Puerto Escondido- holidays

3 weeks in a sleepy coastal town on the West Coast of Mexico. 1 VW van named Fred covered in grafitti and the Australian Flag. 1 shared house with 8 Aussie residents and myself. The well-known Mexican Pipeline, famous for some of the heaviest breaking waves around. Isn`t this paradise?

Yes, it was.

When we first arrived in Puerto Escondido, we already had decided that we would be spending a few weeks there- we wanted to spend Christmas and New Years in a familiar town where we were comfortable with the surroundings and already knew some people. We never expected to leave with a family and such epic memories.


The town is a quiet little beach town with a main beach-avenue and not much else. The waves are intense..only those who are experiences surfers, or those who are thrill-seekers will take on the challenge of the Mexican Pipeline. The riptides are so intense that swimming is dangerous and one needs to exercise precaution at all times not to get pulled away with the currents.




Jess has a friend (Az) who we find our first night. As usual, he introduces us to some new friends that he met in the hostel. Before long, we have a posse of 9 crazy Australians, a random Brit, and myself. 2 of the Aussie boys have driven from Vancouver to Mexico in their VW van which we quickly adopt and take advantage of.

The next 2 weeks consist of loading people into Fred, while others are hanging off the back bumper, others out the door, and driving around the surrounding beaches looking for new activities.


The boys are all dedicated surfers and are intent on finding the RipCurl featured Wave of the year...in Barra de La Cruz, which is a few hours south of Puerto Esc.


We load the surfboards, stuff 6 of us into the van and take off south. We have no map, no directions...actually, we literally have nothing except the DVD of the Ripcurl search which is what we use as our naviagtional tool. 4 hours later we arrive to a tiny town. There is only one restaurant and the people are incredibly accomodating. After eating, they allow Jon to set up his hammock at the restuarant while we park the van next-door...Jess and I sleep atop of the combie and Hedge sleeps inside the Van. Az and Tony opt to rent a room. We wake up at sunrise and drive down to beach where the boys spend 2 glorious days filled of surfing the ^dreamwave^.








When we return back to town, the Christmas crowd has started to arrive and sleepy Puerto Esc has been transformed. We decided to drive around and find a quiet beach for the day. Shortly after we arrive at the isolated strip of sand, a young Mexican couple approach us. They take us to a tent nearby where we find that this is a turtle-hatchery. In front of us is over 100 baby sea-turtles that hatched the night before. They are being released that evening into the ocean. Next to us an old Mexican couple who look like they are in their 80`s have been sleeping in these tents for 5 months gathering turtle eggs and preserving them in a hatchery from poachers. They have over 1000 eggs that are ready to hatch this month. What an incredible thing to stumble upon.





As Christmas approaches we have already settled down in the best find of our trip. We found a split house that 6 of us officially sharing, (although we have 2 additional dwellers who sleep on the hammocks onthe roof) We have a heap of friends who we have met that are living in other houses as well. We decide to put on a massive Christmas lunch. We take Fred into town and assign everyone a duty at the market. We come back with 4 kilos of fresh fish, 2 kilos of fresh shrimp, a ton of fresh veggies, fruit, and other goodies.


We invite everyone and wake up at 10am on Christmas day with secret-santas, a full breakfast of fruit, and mimosas and champage flowing. By 2 in the afternoon we have accumulated over 20 people at the house. We spend the entire day lounging around, playing slip-and-slide, and enjoying the good company. It really doesn`t get much better.


We spend the following week recovering and soon enough New Years arrives which is filled with body-painting and more festivities. 3 weeks manages to fly by and before we know it..it`s time to leave our new friends and move on.



Sad goodbyes and always there is the doubt that you will never meet people that are quite so fabulous, but its time to continue the travels and soon enough, we will find a new group that we love oh so much.